{"id":1803,"date":"2020-04-25T09:16:10","date_gmt":"2020-04-25T09:16:10","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/?p=1803"},"modified":"2020-04-25T09:16:10","modified_gmt":"2020-04-25T09:16:10","slug":"uk-government-urged-to-ban-import-of-chinese-cotton-made-using-uighur-muslim-forced-labour","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/?p=1803","title":{"rendered":"UK government urged to ban import of Chinese cotton \u2018made using Uighur Muslim forced labour&#8217;"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Named in submission of evidence to HMRC are some of UK&#8217;s best-known high street brands, including Ikea, H&amp;M, Muji and Uniqlo<\/p>\n<div class=\"meta-wrap\">\n<p><a title=\"Adam Withnall\" href=\"https:\/\/www.independent.co.uk\/author\/adam-withnall\">Adam Withnall<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/04\/11.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-1804\" src=\"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/04\/11.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"968\" height=\"645\" srcset=\"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/04\/11.jpg 968w, https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/04\/11-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/04\/11-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 968px) 100vw, 968px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>The UK government has been urged to ban the import of cotton sourced from the Chinese province of\u00a0<a class=\"body-link\" href=\"https:\/\/www.independent.co.uk\/topic\/xinjiang\" data-vars-item-name=\"BL-9478501-\/topic\/xinjiang\" data-vars-event-id=\"c6\">Xinjiang<\/a>, a region where\u00a0<a class=\"body-link\" href=\"https:\/\/www.independent.co.uk\/topic\/uighur\" data-vars-item-name=\"BL-9478501-\/topic\/uighur\" data-vars-event-id=\"c6\">Uighur<\/a>\u00a0<a class=\"body-link\" href=\"https:\/\/www.independent.co.uk\/topic\/muslims\" data-vars-item-name=\"BL-9478501-\/topic\/muslims\" data-vars-event-id=\"c6\">Muslims<\/a>\u00a0are being put to work in factories in conditions that amount to forced labour.<\/p>\n<p>A 60-page document submitted to HMRC by lawyers and a rights group on Wednesday amounts to \u201coverwhelming and credible evidence concerning the scale and gravity of the forced labour regime in Xinjiang\u201d, its authors said.<\/p>\n<div id=\"mpu0ArticleBody\" class=\"ad-wrapper ad-wrapper--mobile ad-wrapper--mpu0\"><\/div>\n<p>Named in the submission were some the UK\u2019s best-known brands, including H&amp;M,\u00a0<a class=\"body-link\" href=\"https:\/\/www.independent.co.uk\/topic\/IKEA\" data-vars-item-name=\"BL-9478501-\/topic\/IKEA\" data-vars-event-id=\"c6\">Ikea<\/a>,\u00a0<a class=\"body-link\" href=\"https:\/\/www.independent.co.uk\/topic\/muji\" data-vars-item-name=\"BL-9478501-\/topic\/muji\" data-vars-event-id=\"c6\">Muji<\/a>\u00a0and\u00a0<a class=\"body-link\" href=\"https:\/\/www.independent.co.uk\/topic\/Uniqlo\" data-vars-item-name=\"BL-9478501-\/topic\/Uniqlo\" data-vars-event-id=\"c6\">Uniqlo<\/a>, known to have used Xinjiang cotton in their products in the past year. Some have done so openly: Uniqlo boasted in an advertisement that cotton from the province, used in its shirts, was \u201cfamous for its superb quality\u201d.<\/p>\n<p>However, the UN believes Xinjiang to be the site of potential systemic human-rights abuses against Muslim minorities. Since 2017,\u00a0<a class=\"body-link\" href=\"https:\/\/www.independent.co.uk\/topic\/China\" data-vars-item-name=\"BL-9478501-\/topic\/China\" data-vars-event-id=\"c6\">China<\/a>\u00a0is widely reported to have detained more than a million \u2013 some estimates put the figure at three million \u2013 Uighur Muslims in detention facilities that Beijing has described as vocational training centres.<\/p>\n<div id=\"teads-amp-ad\" class=\"ad-wrapper ad-wrapper--mobile\"><\/div>\n<p>The Chinese government insists the centres are voluntary, and a necessary step to quell a violent Islamist insurgency in the country\u2019s northwest. But rights groups say those who \u201cgraduate\u201d from such centres are being shifted into factories as part of a central government scheme, made to live in on-site dormitories under 24-hour supervision, and refused permission to return to their own homes.<\/p>\n<p>Cotton is big business for China. The country provides between a fifth and a quarter of all global supplies \u2013 and, of that, 84 per cent comes from Xinjiang, according to a report by the Centre for Strategic and International Studies.<\/p>\n<div id=\"taboola-carousel-thumbnails\" class=\"ad-wrapper ad-wrapper--inline-taboola ad-wrapper--mobile\" data-sort-time=\"\"><\/div>\n<p>In writing their letter to the UK\u2019s customs authorities, the World Uighur Congress (WUC) and the Global Legal Action Network (GLAN) argued that current cotton imports from China \u201cinvolve forced labour on such a scale that they violate a number of UK laws, including 19th-century legislation prohibiting the importation of prison-made goods, and should be halted\u201d.<\/p>\n<p>The letter also argues that by allowing the import of cotton from Xinjiang, a region witnessing what the authors call \u201cthe largest mass detention of an ethnic group since the Second World War\u201d, the UK government may be guilt of \u201cconduct ancillary to crimes against humanity\u201d.<\/p>\n<p>Dearbhla Minogue, a legal officer with GLAN, told\u00a0<em>The Independent<\/em>\u00a0that the letter does not carry any legal weight on its own beyond \u201csetting out the legal basis for [HMRC] to stop the imports\u201d.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cBut because they are a public body, all their actions are subject to judicial review by the High Court. So while \u2013 given the UK\u2019s approach to this date \u2013 we\u2019re really hoping they will willingly take up the issue, it does lay out the basis for a potential case later on down the line if that was necessary.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>The letter notes that several brands including Ikea and H&amp;M have previously admitted that some of their cotton may come from Xinjiang, but that the companies said this was sourced in collaboration with the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), a global non-profit organisation that carries out checks on suppliers to ensure standards of sustainability and workers\u2019 rights are met.<\/p>\n<p>However, the BCI recently withdrew its seal of approval from all Xinjiang cotton, announcing on 11 March that \u201cthe operating environment prevents credible assurance and licensing from being executed\u201d in the province.<\/p>\n<p>Muji, the Japanese clothing and homeware brand, launched a whole \u201cXinjiang Cotton\u201d range last spring. It was announced, coincidentally, the day after the publication of a major Wall Street Journal investigation focusing on conditions for workers at a mill in Xinjiang supplying several international retailers. Muji continues to offer \u201cXinjiang Cotton\u201d branded products on its website today.<\/p>\n<div class=\"ad-wrapper ad-wrapper--mobile\"><\/div>\n<p>Rahima Mahmut, the UK project director for the World Uighur Congress and a UK resident, said the persecution of minority Muslims in Xinjiang since 2016-17 has been \u201calmost a genocide\u201d.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cI lost contact with my entire family since January 2017, and all the Uighurs like myself living in exile are living in hell, not knowing what happened,\u201d she told\u00a0<em>The Independent<\/em>.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cThe brands should consider when they are making money from these products, whether they came from Uighur [forced] labour,\u201d she said. \u201cThey should refuse to use such products \u2013 that is all I can ask.<\/p>\n<div class=\"ad-wrapper ad-wrapper--mobile\"><\/div>\n<p>\u201cWe have tried every way possible to raise awareness, telling our stories and presenting the evidence to the UN, to the EU and to governments. Besides just raising concerns, nothing has been done. I think that [banning Xinjiang cotton] may be the only way to push the Chinese government to change their behaviour, if they start to lose money.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>In a statement to\u00a0<em>The Independent<\/em>, a spokesperson for Ikea said that the company had \u201chistorically been using BCI-licensed cotton on a global scale including [from] Xinjiang\u201d but that it \u201csupports the BCI decision\u201d to suspend its assurance activities in the province.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cSince the harvest from the cotton season 2020-21 will not be approved by BCI, Ikea has taken the decision to stop sourcing cotton from Xinjiang, China,\u201d the spokesperson said. \u201cWe want to create a positive impact in the world of cotton, and we know that with our size and volumes, we have the possibility to make a difference. Ikea will continue to work towards improving the cotton industry from within and create a movement towards better cotton and better working conditions for those working in the industry.\u201d<\/p>\n<div class=\"ad-wrapper ad-wrapper--mobile\"><\/div>\n<p>H&amp;M likewise said that \u201cup until now, our suppliers have sourced cotton from farms connected to BCI in the [Xinjiang] region\u201d.<\/p>\n<h2>China destroying Uighur burial grounds<\/h2>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/static.independent.co.uk\/s3fs-public\/thumbnails\/image\/2019\/10\/09\/14\/China-destroying-burial-grounds-1.jpg\" alt=\"Teywizim cemetery in Hotan (before and after)\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/static.independent.co.uk\/s3fs-public\/thumbnails\/image\/2019\/10\/09\/14\/China-destroying-burial-grounds-5.jpg\" alt=\"A cemetery in Xayar (before and after)\" \/><\/p>\n<p>\u201cHowever, BCI has now decided to temporarily suspend licensing of BCI cotton in Xinjiang,&#8221; a spokesperson said. &#8220;This means that for our production, the suppliers we work with will not buy BCI cotton from Xinjiang for the coming season.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>\u201cConsidering the complexity of the situation, we are in close contact with human-rights experts, other brands, and stakeholders, to evaluate how we can further strengthen our due diligence and responsibly address the situation and in accordance with the UN guiding principles.\u201d<\/p>\n<div class=\"ad-wrapper ad-wrapper--mobile\"><\/div>\n<p>A spokesperson for Uniqlo\u00a0said the company was\u00a0&#8220;deeply troubled by reports and articles raising serious concerns on the situation for Uighurs in China&#8221;.<\/p>\n<p>Uniqlo said its &#8220;production partners\u00a0must commit to our strict company code of conduct, which covers human and worker rights&#8221;.<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;Through mechanisms Uniqlo has in place to identify potential violations of human and worker rights, we have not learned of any of the issues raised in past reports or articles.<\/p>\n<div class=\"ad-wrapper ad-wrapper--mobile\"><\/div>\n<p>&#8220;We continue to communicate with our production partners about the workforce in their supply chains, in order to ensure our products are being produced in ethical environments.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p>Muji did not respond to a request\u00a0for comment before publication.\u00a0A spokesperson for Ryohin Keikaku, Muji&#8217;s parent company, told Australia\u2019s\u00a0<a class=\"body-link\" href=\"https:\/\/www.independent.co.uk\/topic\/abc-news\" data-vars-item-name=\"BL-9478501-\/topic\/abc-news\" data-vars-event-id=\"c6\">ABC News<\/a>\u00a0late last year that Xinjiang was \u201cone of the world&#8217;s finest cotton-producing areas\u201d.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cWe do not disclose any names of suppliers,\u201d the spokesperson said. \u201cHowever, in response to the recent inquiries, we have started conducting a review of the situation in the Xinjiang area for farms that cultivate cotton as well as spinning factories that produce yarn \u2013 the products of which are applied in our cotton products. We will announce the results of the review when necessary.\u201d It is unclear whether that review has been completed.<\/p>\n<p>Source:independent.co.uk\/news\/uk\/home-news\/chinese-cotton-uk-government-important-uighur-muslim-labour-a9478501.html<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>&nbsp; Named in submission of evidence to HMRC are some of UK&#8217;s best-known high street brands, including Ikea, H&amp;M, Muji and Uniqlo Adam Withnall The UK government has been urged to ban the import of cotton sourced from the Chinese province of\u00a0Xinjiang, a region where\u00a0Uighur\u00a0Muslims\u00a0are being put to work in factories in conditions that amount [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":101020,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[19],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1803","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-chinas-uyghur-politics"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1803","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/101020"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=1803"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1803\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1805,"href":"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1803\/revisions\/1805"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=1803"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=1803"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=1803"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}