{"id":1584,"date":"2020-01-21T09:41:54","date_gmt":"2020-01-21T09:41:54","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/?p=1584"},"modified":"2020-01-21T09:41:54","modified_gmt":"2020-01-21T09:41:54","slug":"an-ancient-uighur-town-yarkand-battered-but-resilient-after-chinas-crackdown","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/?p=1584","title":{"rendered":"An Ancient Uighur Town, Yarkand: Battered but Resilient After China\u2019s Crackdown"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><a href=\"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255061_e35bfb4c-86bc-4625-9907-4ab5da3bc325-superJumbo.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-1589\" src=\"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255061_e35bfb4c-86bc-4625-9907-4ab5da3bc325-superJumbo.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2048\" height=\"1366\" srcset=\"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255061_e35bfb4c-86bc-4625-9907-4ab5da3bc325-superJumbo.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255061_e35bfb4c-86bc-4625-9907-4ab5da3bc325-superJumbo-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255061_e35bfb4c-86bc-4625-9907-4ab5da3bc325-superJumbo-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255061_e35bfb4c-86bc-4625-9907-4ab5da3bc325-superJumbo-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255061_e35bfb4c-86bc-4625-9907-4ab5da3bc325-superJumbo-1536x1025.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2048px) 100vw, 2048px\" \/><\/a>Uighur men watching a movie at a teahouse in the old city of Yarkand, in the Xinjiang region of China.<\/p>\n<p class=\"css-e07dgr e1jsehar1\">By\u00a0<span class=\"css-1baulvz\">Chris Buckley<\/span>\u00a0and\u00a0<span class=\"css-1baulvz last-byline\">Steven Lee Myers,\u00a0 <\/span>Photographs by\u00a0<span class=\"css-1baulvz last-byline\">Gilles Sabri\u00e9<\/span><\/p>\n<p>Jan. 18, 2020<\/p>\n<div class=\"css-1fanzo5 StoryBodyCompanionColumn\">\n<div class=\"css-53u6y8\">\n<p class=\"css-exrw3m evys1bk0\">YARKAND, China \u2014 The winding, crowded lanes of old Yarkand, an ancient Silk Road town, preserve patterns of life that go back centuries.<\/p>\n<p class=\"css-exrw3m evys1bk0\">On a recent morning, smoke wafted from sputtering grills of lamb and ovens lined with baking flatbread. Clangs rang from a coppersmith shaping bowls with a hammer. Twangs from a dutar, a two-stringed lute, floated from a store selling traditional musical instruments. In a dimly lit teahouse, old men in Muslim head caps murmured in conversation.<\/p>\n<p class=\"css-exrw3m evys1bk0\">Sitting on the fringe of the Taklamakan Desert, Yarkand remains a cultural cradle for Uighurs, a mostly Muslim minority in China\u2019s far western Xinjiang region. But their way of life is under intense pressure.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<aside class=\"css-ew4tgv\" aria-label=\"companion column\"><\/aside>\n<\/div>\n<div id=\"story-ad-1-wrapper\" class=\"css-2ninbb\">\n<div id=\"story-ad-1-slug\" class=\"css-l9onyx\">Uighurs have for three years endured\u00a0<a class=\"css-1g7m0tk\" title=\"\" href=\"https:\/\/www.nytimes.com\/interactive\/2019\/11\/16\/world\/asia\/china-xinjiang-documents.html\">a sweeping campaign<\/a>\u00a0to turn them into obedient followers of the Communist Party, to\u00a0<a class=\"css-1g7m0tk\" title=\"\" href=\"https:\/\/www.nytimes.com\/2018\/09\/08\/world\/asia\/china-uighur-muslim-detention-camp.html\">weaken their commitment to Islam<\/a>\u00a0and to shift them\u00a0<a class=\"css-1g7m0tk\" title=\"\" href=\"https:\/\/www.nytimes.com\/2019\/12\/30\/world\/asia\/china-xinjiang-muslims-labor.html\">from farms to factories<\/a>. Towns and cities across Xinjiang are surrounded by big police checkpoints that use\u00a0<a class=\"css-1g7m0tk\" title=\"\" href=\"https:\/\/www.nytimes.com\/interactive\/2019\/04\/04\/world\/asia\/xinjiang-china-surveillance-prison.html\">facial recognition scanners<\/a>\u00a0to record people coming and going.<\/div>\n<div><a href=\"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255106_cc1daf14-d33d-4ee2-ac52-c5f1c49cb875-superJumbo.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-1594\" src=\"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255106_cc1daf14-d33d-4ee2-ac52-c5f1c49cb875-superJumbo.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2048\" height=\"1366\" srcset=\"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255106_cc1daf14-d33d-4ee2-ac52-c5f1c49cb875-superJumbo.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255106_cc1daf14-d33d-4ee2-ac52-c5f1c49cb875-superJumbo-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255106_cc1daf14-d33d-4ee2-ac52-c5f1c49cb875-superJumbo-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255106_cc1daf14-d33d-4ee2-ac52-c5f1c49cb875-superJumbo-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255106_cc1daf14-d33d-4ee2-ac52-c5f1c49cb875-superJumbo-1536x1025.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2048px) 100vw, 2048px\" \/><\/a><\/div>\n<div>A girl holding a Chinese language schoolbook, near a food stall in the old city.<\/div>\n<div><a href=\"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255049_73977fce-5f02-4291-b628-42f84e68ce3f-superJumbo.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-1588\" src=\"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255049_73977fce-5f02-4291-b628-42f84e68ce3f-superJumbo.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2048\" height=\"1365\" srcset=\"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255049_73977fce-5f02-4291-b628-42f84e68ce3f-superJumbo.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255049_73977fce-5f02-4291-b628-42f84e68ce3f-superJumbo-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255049_73977fce-5f02-4291-b628-42f84e68ce3f-superJumbo-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255049_73977fce-5f02-4291-b628-42f84e68ce3f-superJumbo-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255049_73977fce-5f02-4291-b628-42f84e68ce3f-superJumbo-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2048px) 100vw, 2048px\" \/><\/a><\/div>\n<div>A bakery displaying sweets and cakes ahead of Eid al-Adha, the Festival of Sacrifice, which is called Corban by Uighurs.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div><\/div>\n<div>Up to a million or more Uighurs have been sent to indoctrination camps since 2017. Yarkand was decimated by these detentions.<\/div>\n<div>\n<div class=\"css-53u6y8\">\n<p class=\"css-exrw3m evys1bk0\">In 2018, this city of approximately 200,000 people was effectively closed off to foreign journalists, with police checkpoints blocking entry by car. Since last year, though, the authorities in Xinjiang have eased up enough that we were allowed in.<\/p>\n<p class=\"css-exrw3m evys1bk0\">Our visit revealed a town scarred by recent upheavals. Bulldozers are encroaching on houses in the old town, condemned as \u201cslums,\u201d to make way for new neighborhoods.<\/p>\n<p class=\"css-exrw3m evys1bk0\">Yet the Uighurs there also appeared resilient. They hold onto customs woven from their history as farmers, merchants and Muslims living on the edge of deserts.<\/p>\n<p class=\"css-exrw3m evys1bk0\">We arrived in Yarkand by a morning train from Hotan, a small city 175 miles to the southeast. After some negotiations and hushed phone calls, a police officer and a propaganda official who had hurried to the station allowed us to visit as long we agreed to be on a train that night to Kashgar, the next city on our journey to see how the Xinjiang region was changing.<\/p>\n<p class=\"css-exrw3m evys1bk0\">A brief taxi ride took us to old Yarkand as stores and restaurants began to stir to life. We were watched constantly by plainclothes officers, and we limited conversations with residents to brief chats, for fear of bringing them trouble.<\/p>\n<p class=\"css-exrw3m evys1bk0\">Yarkand still offers glimpses of its ancient splendors. The main lane in the old commercial area is dotted with the two-story homes of merchants, faded and cracked. Their wooden balustrades and plaster ceilings are decorated with swirling floral patterns, recalling Yarkand\u2019s history as a stop on trade routes crisscrossing China, Central Asia and beyond.<\/p>\n<p class=\"css-exrw3m evys1bk0\">Yarkand was the capital of an Islamic dynasty, the Yarkand Khanate, which lasted two centuries from 1514. Uighurs credit the Khanate with collecting and refining a revered set of musical performances,\u00a0<a class=\"css-1g7m0tk\" title=\"\" href=\"http:\/\/london-uyghur-ensemble-forum.18010.n3.nabble.com\/The-Great-Twelve-Muqam-td821351.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">the Twelve Muqam<\/a>. Tombs of the khans lie in a sprawling cemetery here.<\/p>\n<div class=\"css-53u6y8\">\n<p class=\"css-exrw3m evys1bk0\">On the chief shopping street, knots of women in bright dresses wandered into shops selling children\u2019s clothes, or debated over sparkling trays of necklaces and rings at jewelry stalls. Portly stall holders laid out piles of dried dates and raisins, or sanzi, a snack of fried dough.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_159185565_8fd2e781-edd5-48fe-a6e6-07db2a5db90d-superJumbo.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-1585\" src=\"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_159185565_8fd2e781-edd5-48fe-a6e6-07db2a5db90d-superJumbo.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2048\" height=\"1365\" srcset=\"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_159185565_8fd2e781-edd5-48fe-a6e6-07db2a5db90d-superJumbo.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_159185565_8fd2e781-edd5-48fe-a6e6-07db2a5db90d-superJumbo-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_159185565_8fd2e781-edd5-48fe-a6e6-07db2a5db90d-superJumbo-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_159185565_8fd2e781-edd5-48fe-a6e6-07db2a5db90d-superJumbo-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_159185565_8fd2e781-edd5-48fe-a6e6-07db2a5db90d-superJumbo-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2048px) 100vw, 2048px\" \/><\/a>A butcher working behind metal grids. In recent years all shops and restaurants in the southern Xinjiang region had to set up metal grids on their openings, part of government \u201csecurity measures.\u201d<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255100_03c59e9d-5dcd-4de7-ba00-7e12c33884d1-superJumbo.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-1596\" src=\"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255100_03c59e9d-5dcd-4de7-ba00-7e12c33884d1-superJumbo.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2048\" height=\"1365\" srcset=\"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255100_03c59e9d-5dcd-4de7-ba00-7e12c33884d1-superJumbo.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255100_03c59e9d-5dcd-4de7-ba00-7e12c33884d1-superJumbo-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255100_03c59e9d-5dcd-4de7-ba00-7e12c33884d1-superJumbo-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255100_03c59e9d-5dcd-4de7-ba00-7e12c33884d1-superJumbo-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255100_03c59e9d-5dcd-4de7-ba00-7e12c33884d1-superJumbo-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2048px) 100vw, 2048px\" \/><\/a>Barbers working outdoor in the old city. Beards are now considered a sign of religious extremism and all Uighurs except the elderly now shave.<\/p>\n<p class=\"css-exrw3m evys1bk0\">On this journey through southern Xinjiang, places we had visited in the depths of the crackdown in 2017 and 2018 seemed busier and more crowded now, suggesting that restrictions on residents had eased a bit.<\/p>\n<p class=\"css-exrw3m evys1bk0\">Police checkpoints throughout towns and cities have become less stringent in the past year, and it is easier to move around. In the bazaars, more faces had the weather-hardened features of farmers, suggesting it was easier to travel from villages.<\/p>\n<p class=\"css-exrw3m evys1bk0\">The reasons for these changes weren\u2019t clear; officials have not offered explanations. The government may have felt more confident after detaining so many people. Or it may have felt it had to ease up a little because the restrictions were suffocating the local economy and tourism, and drawing international condemnation.<\/p>\n<p class=\"css-exrw3m evys1bk0\">Even so, Yarkand remains girded by security. Protective metal grates encased many shops. Cooks\u2019 cleavers were chained to benches, as police rules demand, to prevent potential stabbings.<\/p>\n<p class=\"css-exrw3m evys1bk0\">The government hopes the security will bring back tourists, and Yarkand has converted a gracefully reconstructed palace of the Khans into a gaudy attraction, which doubles as a film and television set.<\/p>\n<p class=\"css-exrw3m evys1bk0\">\u201cChinese culture, Chinese expression,\u201d says a sign at the entrance to the building. Inside, visitors are greeted by a billboard portrait of Xi Jinping, the Communist Party leader, waving against a background showing modern apartment buildings.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255088_e7cb5ff5-a3cb-428c-ab38-34baf4bd12cf-superJumbo.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-1593\" src=\"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255088_e7cb5ff5-a3cb-428c-ab38-34baf4bd12cf-superJumbo.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2048\" height=\"1366\" srcset=\"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255088_e7cb5ff5-a3cb-428c-ab38-34baf4bd12cf-superJumbo.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255088_e7cb5ff5-a3cb-428c-ab38-34baf4bd12cf-superJumbo-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255088_e7cb5ff5-a3cb-428c-ab38-34baf4bd12cf-superJumbo-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255088_e7cb5ff5-a3cb-428c-ab38-34baf4bd12cf-superJumbo-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255088_e7cb5ff5-a3cb-428c-ab38-34baf4bd12cf-superJumbo-1536x1025.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2048px) 100vw, 2048px\" \/><\/a>The Juma Mosque in the old city. The red sign above the entrance reads: \u201cLove the Party, Love the Country.\u201d<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255073_e7230799-b6b8-40a7-b73a-f179f5365595-superJumbo.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-1590\" src=\"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255073_e7230799-b6b8-40a7-b73a-f179f5365595-superJumbo.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2048\" height=\"1365\" srcset=\"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255073_e7230799-b6b8-40a7-b73a-f179f5365595-superJumbo.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255073_e7230799-b6b8-40a7-b73a-f179f5365595-superJumbo-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255073_e7230799-b6b8-40a7-b73a-f179f5365595-superJumbo-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255073_e7230799-b6b8-40a7-b73a-f179f5365595-superJumbo-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255073_e7230799-b6b8-40a7-b73a-f179f5365595-superJumbo-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2048px) 100vw, 2048px\" \/><\/a>Standing in the ruins of demolished houses, people sell sheep that will be sacrificed for a festival.<\/p>\n<div class=\"css-53u6y8\">\n<p class=\"css-exrw3m evys1bk0\">Some signs of change in Yarkand since the crackdown are subtle. In a dusty park, six barbers wielded razors, scraping whiskers from men\u2019s faces, occasionally grunting to a customer to stay still or tilt his head.<\/p>\n<p class=\"css-exrw3m evys1bk0\">Not long ago, barbers were in less demand. Beginning in the 1990s, southern Xinjiang experienced an Islamic resurgence. More younger men wore Muslim skull caps and grew beards, while more women took to wearing the heavy headdresses and long dresses common in the Middle East to display their Islamic piety.<\/p>\n<p class=\"css-exrw3m evys1bk0\">The government blamed this resurgence of religion for growing ethnic resistance and violence, including a clash in Yarkand in 2014, when Uighurs with axes and knives\u00a0<a class=\"css-1g7m0tk\" title=\"\" href=\"https:\/\/www.nytimes.com\/2014\/08\/04\/world\/asia\/china-says-nearly-100-are-killed-in-week-of-unrest-in-xinjiang.html\">attacked a government office and police station<\/a>\u00a0and killed 37 people, according to government reports.<\/p>\n<div class=\"css-53u6y8\">\n<p class=\"css-exrw3m evys1bk0\">Now displays of Islamic faith have virtually all disappeared from Yarkand, and across all Xinjiang, in the wake of the mass detentions and a wave of prohibitions. Most women wore modest head scarves or none at all; only a few old men had beards. Mosques appeared closed or largely empty, even at prayer times. Observing Ramadan is officially discouraged. When we stopped outside the Juma Mosque, a man scurried out and shooed us away.<\/p>\n<p class=\"css-exrw3m evys1bk0\">\u201cLove the Party, Love the Country,\u201d the banner above the entrance said. That message was repeated outside other Xinjiang mosques.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255046_519d250f-af03-4534-84ec-d3e65511b2f6-superJumbo.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-1587\" src=\"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255046_519d250f-af03-4534-84ec-d3e65511b2f6-superJumbo.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2048\" height=\"1365\" srcset=\"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255046_519d250f-af03-4534-84ec-d3e65511b2f6-superJumbo.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255046_519d250f-af03-4534-84ec-d3e65511b2f6-superJumbo-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255046_519d250f-af03-4534-84ec-d3e65511b2f6-superJumbo-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255046_519d250f-af03-4534-84ec-d3e65511b2f6-superJumbo-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255046_519d250f-af03-4534-84ec-d3e65511b2f6-superJumbo-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2048px) 100vw, 2048px\" \/><\/a>Uighur children claiming their prize at a lucky draw game.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255079_98c41310-47ba-44bd-b21d-c405a1ce6c86-superJumbo.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-1591\" src=\"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255079_98c41310-47ba-44bd-b21d-c405a1ce6c86-superJumbo.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2048\" height=\"1365\" srcset=\"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255079_98c41310-47ba-44bd-b21d-c405a1ce6c86-superJumbo.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255079_98c41310-47ba-44bd-b21d-c405a1ce6c86-superJumbo-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255079_98c41310-47ba-44bd-b21d-c405a1ce6c86-superJumbo-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255079_98c41310-47ba-44bd-b21d-c405a1ce6c86-superJumbo-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255079_98c41310-47ba-44bd-b21d-c405a1ce6c86-superJumbo-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2048px) 100vw, 2048px\" \/><\/a>Patrons in a restaurant\u00a0in an underground strip of shops near the old town.<\/p>\n<p class=\"css-exrw3m evys1bk0\">Not all traditions have disappeared.<\/p>\n<p class=\"css-exrw3m evys1bk0\">Amid the rubble of a demolished lot, residents bought sheep for Eid al-Adha, the Festival of Sacrifice, called Corban by Uighurs. They stared intensely over the local variety of sheep with their extravagantly fat rumps and pried open their jaws to check their mouths. The sheep would be killed and shared for days of feasting.<\/p>\n<p class=\"css-exrw3m evys1bk0\">Restaurants in old Yarkand were a hubbub of multigenerational families gathered around servings of noodles, samsa \u2014 baked pastry pockets of mince \u2014 and mutton soup. Signs on the restaurant walls repeated the government\u2019s call for ethnic unity.<\/p>\n<p class=\"css-exrw3m evys1bk0\">\u201cAll ethnic groups must bind together as tightly as pomegranate seeds,\u201d said a sign seen in most stores.<\/p>\n<div class=\"css-53u6y8\">\n<p class=\"css-exrw3m evys1bk0\">In a basement-level cafe, Uighur women in their 20s in sunglasses, jeans and bright skirts chattered over sweet drinks. One woman sat beside a small, old man with a white beard, perhaps her grandfather, offering him spoonfuls of ice cream.<\/p>\n<p class=\"css-exrw3m evys1bk0\">Members of China\u2019s Han majority were an uncommon sight. Yarkand is over 90 percent Uighur, although Chinese culture and language are spreading. A young girl passed by on the back of an electric cycle, clutching a textbook for learning Chinese \u2014 the language at school for Uighur children now.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255097_28d94779-891a-465b-a3e9-9dae952ed424-superJumbo.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-1597\" src=\"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255097_28d94779-891a-465b-a3e9-9dae952ed424-superJumbo.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2048\" height=\"1365\" srcset=\"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255097_28d94779-891a-465b-a3e9-9dae952ed424-superJumbo.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255097_28d94779-891a-465b-a3e9-9dae952ed424-superJumbo-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255097_28d94779-891a-465b-a3e9-9dae952ed424-superJumbo-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255097_28d94779-891a-465b-a3e9-9dae952ed424-superJumbo-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255097_28d94779-891a-465b-a3e9-9dae952ed424-superJumbo-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2048px) 100vw, 2048px\" \/><\/a>A Uighur woman walking past new buildings rising on the edge of old Yarkand.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255082_22e69a3c-e3d2-48d8-878d-3cd006def848-superJumbo.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-1592\" src=\"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255082_22e69a3c-e3d2-48d8-878d-3cd006def848-superJumbo.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2048\" height=\"1365\" srcset=\"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255082_22e69a3c-e3d2-48d8-878d-3cd006def848-superJumbo.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255082_22e69a3c-e3d2-48d8-878d-3cd006def848-superJumbo-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255082_22e69a3c-e3d2-48d8-878d-3cd006def848-superJumbo-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255082_22e69a3c-e3d2-48d8-878d-3cd006def848-superJumbo-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_164255082_22e69a3c-e3d2-48d8-878d-3cd006def848-superJumbo-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2048px) 100vw, 2048px\" \/><\/a>Noodles for lunch in a courtyard.<\/p>\n<div class=\"css-53u6y8\">\n<p class=\"css-exrw3m evys1bk0\">As we walked around, we wondered if passers-by might be former detainees of indoctrination camps or prisons. We watched young men absorbed in a streetside lucky draw game, shouting or grimacing at the results. We could only guess how many more men would have been around before the wave of detentions.<\/p>\n<p class=\"css-exrw3m evys1bk0\">Government records from six villages in rural areas of Yarkand in 2018 showed nearly 16 percent of 3,249 adults listed were held in indoctrination camps, prisons or criminal detention centers, Adrian Zenz, a German researcher who has closely studied Xinjiang,\u00a0<a class=\"css-1g7m0tk\" title=\"\" href=\"https:\/\/www.jpolrisk.com\/wash-brains-cleanse-hearts\/?__cf_chl_jschl_tk__=514c8fba6ad68dab489932d3d303363d7347650d-1578207465-0-ARRKnAMZyMhUyvhlj49mpssD8pZvMEnEmiqKOpu9aemp_QjDEqWv4OlXYBXJCfkxeeVfaaZVM9CA_ZfmePfedc-I9MhQDIB5DQJsk8htGCJrlHgH4npzehPgn8-x9im5l4X8vpMQjtg7uLKzW7YH6OU5zwOuan2UtQF6v8_yB_NjeHU3KqpwBjOdkwM_IoLY_pdZ85aQAL5UfRaiSOGKXBZ0KK71JRPvvngjaKuV1QI-drJl5vq-an0WPFzwk3HgijXvV2lWBSKDJhs9_xNEPmKFhVXEugJtEe9qoCB4xDTc\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">said in a recent\u00a0<\/a><a class=\"css-1g7m0tk\" title=\"\" href=\"https:\/\/www.jpolrisk.com\/wash-brains-cleanse-hearts\/?__cf_chl_jschl_tk__=dac807b6db42ffd0c6f5139f3d0dd09a3b93053e-1579047893-0-AUdPNxMhZTStB0Qp6iFqaci9hNjvUR6rBHnq2nEvVQNbZHXN-Xai8Fv6kK8O4ECI1Wu-1eCETeZJbsvnrcrIBD6UIOQHkYVtt7sUK9aFEPnquirbj-ZixlLDWqs6gV4lDOMZXMNOxPJCt6lNpX5Db-MT7zkQspczozRxaqpDpAqdRG_OBTYv_Q4oxPRZPFqL0Gq5qD_I2JQL8rB_tg7yeZMS0SLWDjA81uQ7Zj7t1OeG7tQ__8RjODgeuS5wKSxoBapGJm532NTabfPyoHR5w4h46G1Ch14Q45UkU1YELBe1\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">report<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p class=\"css-exrw3m evys1bk0\">Near the train station in Yarkand, one indoctrination camp appeared empty; the usual cordon of guards had gone. The government has said the camps across Xinjiang are shrinking. But other, bigger ones we tried to visit across southern Xinjiang were still under heavy guard, suggesting they stayed in operation.<\/p>\n<div class=\"css-53u6y8\">\n<p class=\"css-exrw3m evys1bk0\">Old Yarkand may not survive much longer.<\/p>\n<p class=\"css-exrw3m evys1bk0\">\u201cTake reform all the way,\u201d said a slogan painted on gutted homes waiting to be pulled down.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_159185640_e2455c50-4cc9-4311-bfb1-e9b11d2affe7-superJumbo.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-1586\" src=\"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_159185640_e2455c50-4cc9-4311-bfb1-e9b11d2affe7-superJumbo.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2048\" height=\"1365\" srcset=\"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_159185640_e2455c50-4cc9-4311-bfb1-e9b11d2affe7-superJumbo.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_159185640_e2455c50-4cc9-4311-bfb1-e9b11d2affe7-superJumbo-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_159185640_e2455c50-4cc9-4311-bfb1-e9b11d2affe7-superJumbo-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_159185640_e2455c50-4cc9-4311-bfb1-e9b11d2affe7-superJumbo-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/merlin_159185640_e2455c50-4cc9-4311-bfb1-e9b11d2affe7-superJumbo-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2048px) 100vw, 2048px\" \/><\/a>The ruin of a house in the old city, which is undergoing demolitions and new construction.<\/p>\n<p>Source: The New York Times<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Uighur men watching a movie at a teahouse in the old city of Yarkand, in the Xinjiang region of China. By\u00a0Chris Buckley\u00a0and\u00a0Steven Lee Myers,\u00a0 Photographs by\u00a0Gilles Sabri\u00e9 Jan. 18, 2020 YARKAND, China \u2014 The winding, crowded lanes of old Yarkand, an ancient Silk Road town, preserve patterns of life that go back centuries. On a [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":8,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[26],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1584","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-uyghur-news"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1584","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/8"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=1584"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1584\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1598,"href":"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1584\/revisions\/1598"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=1584"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=1584"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/akademiye.org\/en\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=1584"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}